Book: Taco USA! by Gustavo Arellano
Reviewed by: Joe T.
In a widely circulated but little understood news story from around 1991, salsa and other “hot sauces” overtook ketchup as the number one condiment in America. Heralded as the threshold moment when “Mexican food” became “American food,” that time is both the culmination and jumping-on point for Gustavo Arellano’s fantastic new book Taco USA!, which studies how south of the border cuisine conquered the universe.
Broken down into chapters focusing upon each plate as it is introduced into the states, from chili and tamales in the 1870s to that most fantastic of inventions, the frozen margarita, in the 1970s, it reads like a Food Network mini series. Part history and part interviews, you can just hear Arellano’s voice as if he were Anthony Bourdain investigating the roots of the burrito. In fact, now that I think of it, I want to see a mini series hosted by Gustavo Arellano as he travels the country eating at all the Mexican food joints he comes across. “Paging Ken Burns!”
I’m not gonna lie, I love Mexican food. It’s pretty much all I eat. When I’m not eating Mexican food, I try to turn whatever it is I’m eating into some form of taco-licious joy (I highly recommend migas made with strips of leftover pizza.) This book is in the running for my favorite book I’ve read this year. But, I do have one caveat: have plenty of Mexican food around you as you read this because YOU WILL BECOME HUNGRY!
Oh, and for all you Texans who’ve experienced El Paso cuisine, in the chapter “What Are the Five Greatest Mexican Meals in the United States?” Chico’s Tacos came in at number two. If you don’t know what that means, you should read the book and get down to El Paso as soon as you can.
Gustavo Arellano spreaks about and signs Taco USA! here at BookPeople on Wednesday, May 9, 7p. Free tacos for everyone who attends the event!
BookPeople 